Our introduction to Philippe Etchebest’s world takes place in this beautiful room in the basement of Le Quatrième Mur, the chef’s Bordeaux brasserie right in the heart of the city. No mystery and no false promises: this is indeed a table d’hôtes, with all its traditions (dishes are served simultaneously to all guests; we start together, we finish together, everyone at the same table), and its perks—often a video call with the chef himself, who extends a warm welcome when he isn’t physically present—and the closeness to the kitchen staff, who work right in front of you to ensure a smooth, well-paced, and balanced dining experience. With superb ingredients and a confident, expertly executed meal, you’ll have a wonderful time here for a flat rate that’s by no means excessive: €185. The well-stocked wine cellar gives everyone the choice of splurging on a fine Bordeaux or treating themselves to a small-batch IGP selected by the sommelier.