A central spot that has the merit of being consistent and always delivering. While the menu may be a bit too influenced by commercial pressures, the kitchen still knows how to do things right, and it’s worth coming back for the classics. For a quick lunch, try the egg with mayonnaise and herbs, the tuna tartare, the sea bream fillet with sautéed greens, sauce vierge, and homemade mashed potatoes, Provençal stuffed vegetables (peppers, zucchini, tomato, and pilaf rice; carbonara risotto; cordon bleu with mashed potatoes; or a thin apple tart.