A pioneer among the group—followed by Caillebotte and Coucou—Pantruche paved the way for a sassy Parisian bistro that does its job well without following the dictates of fashion. Keeping an eye on tradition while offering an evolved take: squid tartare seasoned with red wine and cuttlefish ink, celery confit with seaweed; farm-raised veal with smoked Castelfranco potato mousseline, roasted feta, and eel sauce; Grand Marnier soufflé with salted butter caramel—a well-executed sequence on this €45 à la carte menu. Perhaps not unforgettable, but solid enough to please a wide audience, with efficient service and a wine cellar of the same caliber: well-balanced and reasonably priced.
