Benoît Bordier, who was one of the stars of the 2000s “new wave” with his restaurant Jean, near Saint-Lazare, has taken over this prime location—along with his wife Catherine—after a series of successful stints, notably working with Bruno Doucet. There, he creates the kind of cuisine he loves—authentic and flavorful—at reasonable prices, offering a tempting à la carte menu for €46: tuna crudo with sour cherries in shiso vinegar and cucumber gazpacho; beef chuck with new potatoes, brown butter, and raspberry jus with basil; nectarines and blackberries with lemon-ginger-verbena sorbet. Beautiful, clean, and generous dishes, complemented by a wine list featuring excellent selections (Eric Nicolas, Christophe Coursodon, Pierre-Jean Villa…).