Like all of Louis’s former clients, we’re delighted that Stéphane Pitré quickly found a piano to express his vision. In the somewhat austere setting of a contemporary building near the Champs-Élysées, the dining room—decorated with motifs by Elsa Schiaparelli, who once lived here—exudes warmth and distinction, especially as the dishes begin to arrive. His talent has undeniably returned, along with elegant seasonal dishes bursting with summer flavors: crab meat cannelloni with a grapefruit-gelée remoulade and avocado-yuzu condiment, roasted line-caught sea bass with skin, grilled vegetables, and a garlic-infused vinaigrette; a medley of melons over a fresh mint consommé and mojito sorbet. Two chef’s hats are also back right away, as we await the evolution of this restaurant that is already making waves.