Opened in 1992, this Villaret is a staple of the 11th arrondissement and one of the leading innovators in the local bistro scene. Olivier Gaslain’s restaurant hasn’t changed much, but it doesn’t need to—it stands firmly on its own two feet and knows its craft, offering classic cuisine: Breton artichoke and asparagus stew, sautéed oyster mushrooms, pan-seared Noirmoutier skate wing, gnocchi with chorizo, lobster bisque with fresh tomatoes, a rack of Lozère lamb roasted in a herb crust, lamb jus with savory and a delicate ratatouille, Alpaco grand cru chocolate croquettes, and salted butter caramel. The wine cellar is also one of the restaurant’s greatest assets, boasting no fewer than a thousand selections, spanning past and present (Clos Marie, Tempier, Théo Dancer, Domaine des Quarts, Gramenon, Jamet, Jean-Louis Chave, Benoît Ente…).