Les Jardins du Moulin

Rating: 12
Author: Gault&Millau

7 Rue du Moulin, 67110 Gundershoffen, France

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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Location: Gundershoffen
Cooking: French
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Accommodation, Children's Menu, Pets allowed, Private Parking, Terrace

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

49 to 95

Gault&Millau's review 2026

12/20

Gourmet Restaurant

The moment you arrive, the magic begins: this former mill, built in 1724 and transformed into a charming hotel at the turn of the millennium by Annie and François Paul—former owners of Le Cygne—now comprises an elegant complex of Alsatian buildings nestled along the banks of the Falkensteinerbach. Everything here seems to have been thought out and maintained with meticulous care: impeccable gardens, cobblestone paths, outbuildings adorned with flowers, and, everywhere, the murmur of water that lends the estate a bucolic tranquility that has become a rarity. In the wood-paneled dining room, large picture windows offer a view of the terrace and the surrounding greenery. In the kitchen, Valentin Jozeleau—whom we previously knew from La Vignette in La Robertsau—has taken over from Arnaud Zinck, following an apprenticeship under Gilles Goujon, among others. His foundation remains classic, but his culinary style readily embraces the contemporary, featuring miso, Taggiasca olives, citrus fruits, and a penchant for fruit that runs like a common thread throughout his dishes. The semi-cooked bluefin tuna, simply seared and surrounded by beans, glasswort, seaweed, citrus fruits, and beet cream, delights with its freshness, though a few crystals of salt would have given it more depth. The turbot, roasted in its breading and served with fennel prepared two ways and a creamy shellfish sauce, is executed precisely, but the repetition of the seaweed and salicornia—already present in the starter—creates a slight sense of redundancy. The highlight of the meal comes with the vanilla tartlet, garnished with a compote and a cherry coulis, and topped with a vanilla cloud reminiscent of a chiboust: a precise, indulgent, and remarkably balanced dessert. Finally, a fresh and crispy Bordeaux cannelé rounds out the meal with a subtle nod to the Gironde region, where the chef honed his craft. The wine cellar, small but well-curated, features reliable estates and a few distinctive bottles, particularly from Alsace and Burgundy, with older vintages and reasonable prices that are its true appeal.