Joining the Résistance is almost an act of activism, as this restaurant on the bustling Rue du Château-d’Eau embodies a timeless trend that has been delighting connoisseurs for a very long time. A focus on careful selection and traceability, with plant-based ingredients used to great effect but animal proteins also featured to round out an ever-tempting menu: pâté en croûte, octopus from Audierne Bay, brown butter and fermented lemon, pollock with vin jaune sauce, ravioli stuffed with raclette and zucchini, and Paris-Brest with praline buckwheat and soufflé—all for a bill that’s quite reasonable for the area, around 50 €. Excellent wine selection.