In Picadita's place, Charlotte Baldaquin has opened her first table, a cozy cantine just above the Place aux Huiles. The former chef of Les Grandes tables de la criée offers a simple, personal cuisine that's easy on the eye, with good seasoning and engaging recipes. The place is conducive to relaxed, stress-free conversation, where well-made small plates are passed around; on this particular evening, a small chiffonnade of pork, steamed potatoes and butternut pickles, a lean meat in a good miso broth, cabbage, shiitake, sobacha and green oil, a veal with carrot cream, withered carrots and reduced jus, a gourmand fondant with a runny heart, cherry amarena and cherry caramel. Petite cave nature.