Don't be fooled by appearances: the sleek storefront in fact conceals a fine contemporary table, imagining inspired reinterpretations of the bistro register. Martin Dumas' work is serious and personal, and can only be recommended after a visit to Les Halles: a beautiful combination of cream of corn, grilled artichokes with licorice and coffee crumble, roasted monkfish tail, braised white asparagus with Colonnata bacon, spinach purée, grey shrimp consommé with smoked bones, thick-cut veal liver deglazed with sherry vinegar, macaroni with celery confit and parmesan, rice with almond milk and tonka bean, rhubarb declension and crispy tuile. Tasting menu €68. Pleasant cellar.