The Lancaster’s dining offerings are well under control. There are no overambitious goals—not since Julien Roucheteau’s departure a few years ago—but the service is appropriate and of a high standard, with the chef drawing on what works well today: sea bream ceviche with citrus and pistou, veal carpaccio with mayonnaise and tuna belly as a take on vitello tonnato, Provençal-style osso buco, bayaldi of vegetables confit with pink garlic… Tapas and light bites are available throughout the day.