The setting, the location, the chef. Everything comes together behind the wrought-iron gates of this old stone house to ensure that tradition is carefully preserved and upheld. Manuel Martinez sees to it, and his admirers—not to mention his fans—obviously never tire of it. Classic dishes, perfect sauces, elegance and flair to preserve what matters most: the sea bass quenelle with mushroom mousseline and champagne glaze, the lobster and foie gras ravioli with porcini cream, the Burgaud duck served in two courses (with cherries and as a foie gras pie), the chocolate tart, or the millefeuille with Tahitian vanilla cream… So many standout dishes that uphold and enhance France’s culinary prestige. The atmosphere, as one might expect, is nothing like that of neo-bistros and pizzerias. Who would complain about that?