Restaurant Julien Binz

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

7 Rue des Cigognes, 68770 Ammerschwihr, France

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Location: Ammerschwihr
Chef: Julien Binz
Cooking: Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Children's Menu, Pets allowed

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

59 to 134

Gault&Millau's review 2026

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

From the moment you enter, Julien Binz’s home exudes a certain air of refinement: a mural inspired by Fragonard’s “La Fontaine d’Amour,” a large Napoleon III mirror, mouse-gray wood paneling, chandeliers, black lace, and gilded sculptures come together to create a decor that embraces both ornamentation and splendor. Trained under Haeberlin, Gaertner, and Westermann, the chef champions an enlightened, sometimes globally inspired classical cuisine, committed to fine ingredients, contrasts, and accompanying dishes that lend his creations their dynamism. His “Tomato Story” provides the most brilliant demonstration of this: chipotle-infused tomato water, a brunoise tartlet, vanilla-pickled cherry tomatoes, stracciatella, a remarkable Green Zebra sorbet with basil, balsamic-marinated watermelon, and smoked gazpacho come together in a rich medley whose acidity—masterfully balanced—ensures cohesion. The turbot, confit at a low temperature in verbena oil, has melt-in-your-mouth flesh, enhanced by roasted almonds, celery, and a verbena-lemongrass beurre blanc of great precision, though the bitter almond extract seems here to unnecessarily overwhelm the dish. With the French lamb, the dish takes an Eastern turn: a melt-in-your-mouth chop and cromesquis made from shoulder confit with Panko breadcrumbs find a precise and indulgent counterpoint in the date, olive, and lemon condiment. Alsatian strawberries bring the meal to a joyful, fireworks-like conclusion: a cubed Norwegian omelet, a nod to the 1970s, strawberries marinated in elderflower, and an edible soap bubble trapping a wisp of Tagada strawberry smoke—all of which evoke childhood memories without the virtuosity veering into gimmickry. Elegant and attentive, the service plays a full part in the restaurant’s harmonious atmosphere, while the succession of thoughtful touches—right down to the house-made chocolates—pleasantly maintains the rhythm. Finally, the wine cellar possesses a distinctive character: the Kaefferkopf grand cru in its many forms, old vintages from Maurice Schoech, and wines made from mixed plantings and extended maceration stand alongside Burgundian excellence, with a by-the-glass selection of rare depth.