A pocket restaurant at the back of the Old Port, this is a good neighborhood canteen, with its extra-clean interior and daily rotation of market cuisine. You can practically eat in the kitchen, in this long, one-room space, where the chef works solo and serves the plates and wine himself. The compositions are in tune with the times, with some rather playful ideas: bbq-style Brussels sprouts with garlic labneh and pistachio praline; kefté of matured red tuna, aioli, broccoli, kale and nettles; chicken supreme, Espelette sabayon and French fries. The almond moelleux is a little dry, but the salted butter caramel whipped cream adds a touch of tenderness. The cellar is very (too) short, with only nine choices in bottles, all of them natural.
Chef
